“SEX!“ the letters in big, bold green yelled at me from the back of a tempo. We were driving in the ‘ghats’, on our way to Mahabaleshwar; a little town high up in the Sahyadris. These letters caught my attention (as they were meant to) and as we neared the tempo, we saw; perched on the top; three obviously fake tigers, either stuffed or made of plaster of Paris. Even though they were inanimate, they looked a little embarrassed to be seen in that ridiculous setting. Below those letters that had stirred my curiosity; in smaller letters was the message- Nature Lovers, now that we have your attention, please visit XXXXX (name of place) on your next trip to Panchgani. Followed by the location of XXXX, which happens to be, of all things- an amusement park. Probably wildlife themed. If at all I visited this place, it would be in a bulldozer and armed with a demolition permit.
Because, this ridiculous gimmick, in a nutshell, summed up the condition of what was once my favourite getaway in the hills. Over the years, this quiet, picturesque little town, which looks down at an equally picturesque lake surrounded by verdant hills, has transformed into a noisy, over-crowded and polluted place, teeming with hordes of tourists in search of a retreat, away from the hustle-bustle of the city.
The problem is that they bring with them everything that one dislikes about the city- speeding vehicles, blaring music, frenetic activity and litter. And though they are visiting a hill-station, they seem to require the entertainment of the city. Hence, the amusement parks, Go-karting tracks, gaming arcades that have sprouted up all over Panchgani and Mahabaleshwar, catering to the needs of these pleasure seeking hordes and their offspring. Not for them the quiet serenity of the hills. Oh no.
As children, a trip to Mahabaleshwar used to be one long picnic for us. The road that led to the foothills was lined with sugarcane fields on both sides. And stretches of uninhabited land where we’d stop to dig into the foodstuffs that were carried from home. There were ‘jamun’ trees where we’d halt and gather the juicy purple fruit, or buy some from the local village children. Over the years, roadside eateries and resorts have sprung up almost everywhere complete with everything from snacks to Chinese, South Indian, Veg and Non-Veg meals, assorted candies, chikkis and (most important!) Clean Toilets.
The roads would also be lined with Gulmohar trees in full bloom during the summer months. Their vibrant red and orange flowers were a sight for sore eyes. They are being replaced more and more by eyesores- industrial units, factories and other concrete structures. But who can halt the march of development?
As we neared Mahabaleshwar, the forests got thicker, making it easier to ignore the construction that cropped up along the way. The air was fresh, the breeze was cool and heady. The long road that wound its way along the ‘ghats’ was almost unchanged. We headed for the local market place, which is just a narrow lane with shops and shacks on either side. And the delights they hold! One can wander around for hours, trying on the footwear in various shops, examining the colourful bags, feeling the soft quilts and woollens, stopping in between to sample strawberries and mulberries from the vendors that sit on the roadside- for me, it’s like going back in time. And it happens every time I visit Mahabaleshwar. My favourite shop for the best chocolate walnut fudge in the world was there as usual. Next to it, the earthy aroma of roasted ‘chanaas’ filled the air. Simple pleasures, but oh, the joy they bring. And the reassurance that not everything has changed.
As we retraced our steps to where the vehicle was parked, the clouds began to descend over the slopes and swirled around the tree tops. The roads were empty, and the air became cooler and misty. In that instant, it was the Mahabaleshwar of my childhood- quiet, unpolluted and slightly mysterious. I would visit it again and again just to relive that memory and take that brief step back into my younger days.
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