modak: (n.m) Indian dumpling-like sweet consisting of freshly grated coconut and jaggery filling and outer cover made of rice flour which is then steamed. Served hot with home made ghee (clarified butter). Can be had at any time of the day or night or month or year and in any quantity. Disclaimer – needs to be made just ‘right’ for that to be possible.
So, when my friend and I decided to go for a short trek through an areca or betel-nut plantation to visit a temple that is found there, we did not expect to come away with modaks. And here’s how that happened.
The plantation is scenically situated in a lovely green valley. There’s a narrow road leading down the valley and at one point one needs to get out of the vehicle and walk through the plantation to approach the 200 steps that go up to the temple. It’s a beautiful place, quiet, green and the only sound is the twittering of birds and the splash of water as it flows through the many channels that irrigate the trees. There are narrow lanes and paths that lead to the dwellings of the inhabitants. It’s idyllic.
All along the way to the temple steps, the inhabitants have set up little stalls or stands where they sell home made juices of the local fruits, spices, papads and other delicacies – including ‘modaks’
As we entered the plantation, we saw this little two-roomed house from which two elderly ladies called out and asked us to try their modaks. They would be freshly made and served hot, the ladies assured us smiling benignly. We gave in to the temptation (and the very reasonable price) and asked them to keep some ready for us for when we returned from our brief trek. Sure enough, on our return we were presented with three large modaks, hot and aromatic with the scent of ‘ghee’ and coconut. We gobbled down one with relish and packed the other two to take away- much to the disappointment of the ladies who felt we should have eaten them all on the spot.
They really were the best we had ever tasted and pretty soon we felt that we should take some home for others to also enjoy. But how? The plantation was left behind and we were back at our hotel. Our departure was to be the next morning. Oh! If only we had had this brilliant idea a little earlier in the day instead of late in the evening.
Let’s go back to the plantation and ask the ladies if they will make some for us to take next morning on our way out. That was the next idea that struck us. Suiting action to the thought we zipped back to the plantation and hurried to the little house where we had been served the best modaks ever. To come up against a door that was firmly locked. Now what? We looked around helplessly and I waved to try and attract the attention of the people next door. The ladies had locked up for the day and gone home, we were informed. “Where do they live?” we asked, our hopes fading with the sunlight. “Not far, on one of the slopes leading to the plantation” came the response. And then, “I can show you the way, if you want,” added one angel in the guise of an elderly man in a checked shirt. We invited the angel to hop into our vehicle and show us the way. It was getting darker now. We stopped halfway up a slope and were shown a cluster of dwellings on the top. It was the house next to the red one, under the tree, were the directions given to us. We headed up the stairs that led to the top and pretty soon there we were in front of a house that was thankfully unlocked and lit. The angel didn’t know the names of the ladies and there was no door bell. We wandered around tapping at the door and trying to peep in through the window. Finally, in desperation I pushed at the half open front door and behold – there was one of the ladies who seemed completely bewildered on seeing us. And when she made sense of our garbled, slightly breathless explanation as to why we were there, her face lit up with pleasure and gratification. Of course she would have the modaks ready for us the next day. Of course they would be ready on time. Would we like to have two modaks now? No, we have to leave now but thank you so much. And we left, taking with us the warmth of her good bye and the ‘go carefully’ that accompanied it.
The angel was still waiting for us as we descended. He refused our offer to drop him to his home saying that it was just a little way ahead. (Maybe he winged it!) And we returned to our hotel in happy anticipation of the next day.
Sure enough, the next day when we arrived to pick up our treat- we were met by two beaming ladies who told us that they had come early, especially to make our modaks. These were carefully packed and given to us (they were still steaming hot) and now I’m getting hungry just writing this. Here are some photographs I took just to remember them by. I hope that they too will remember the two crazy ladies from the city; who tracked them down one evening, just because they wanted more of their modaks.
PS. 10. That’s the number of times the word ‘modak’ has been mentioned in this post. Not counting the one in the title. And in this afterthought. So, that makes 12. Which seems fair- considering that this is a post about ‘modak’. Ok, so now that’s 13. Somebody stop me!!
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