Revisiting Kerala one snapshot at a time.
The ‘kettuvallam’ or a ‘boat with knots’ is a large, slow-moving boat made with huge planks of wood that are tied together with coir ropes and then covered with a black resin made by boiling cashew kernels. Not a single nail is used to hold the structure together. At one time, these boats or barges were used to move cargo such as spices and rice from one place to another. The bigger boats could carry up to 30 tons of weight which is the equivalent of three big trucks.
The kettuvallam now ferries visitors along the backwaters of Alappuzha. The only rice and spices are the ones used in its kitchen to prepare fresh, tasty meals for these visitors. The fish simmering in the gravy or crisply fried and lying on the platter is either recently caught or purchased from among the several fish shops that are seen along the banks of the canals. One can make a stop at a toddy shop and get some freshly extracted toddy to go with the meal. And after the lunch, make a stop at a massage parlour for a relaxing, aromatic massage, then return to the boat and stretch out for a comfortable snooze while the kettuvallam continues to cruise in a leisurely manner up and down the backwaters. Or alternatively, you can lean back in a comfortable chair on the upper deck and watch the world go by. Just another day on a houseboat in Alappuzha.
As can be seen in the picture, the kettuvallams of today have been transformed from cargo boats to houseboats, and hence come with all the comforts of home. They have bedrooms with attached bathrooms (a necessity AND a luxury), air conditioners, a well -equipped kitchen, easy chairs and couches to lounge in- because all that sitting and eating is hard work!
Like Sheldon of ‘The Big Bang Theory’, I too had ‘my spot’ on the boat and this was it. It had a great view, caught the breeze from all sides, was wide enough for me to stretch out and narrow enough to ensure I wouldn’t fall asleep and topple off. It was on the upper deck and I spent a glorious afternoon there; napping, listening to music, snacking and just soaking up the scenery.
The views! Calm, serene waters, velvety green paddy fields on one side, coconut trees lining the banks, clear skies above (except when the clouds arrived, bearing rain) and waves lapping at the sides of the boat as it glides its way along the network of canals. Bliss!
Malayalam movies are appreciated for their ‘slice of life’ stories and how beautifully they are presented. Even a dark film like ‘Kumbalangi Nights’ has some of the most picturesque locales. A cruise along the backwaters of Alappuzha offers a glimpse into how life is in the villages that nestle along their banks. The daily grind of routine life can hardly be called idyllic, whether one is living in the soulless concrete jungle of the city or among the lush, green paddy fields of Alappuzha. But that day I once again felt this slight sense of envy towards the inhabitants of those cosy looking houses, each with its own garden of fruit trees and flowers, steps leading to the water and a space to tie their own private little boats. I saw women chatting while taking a break during household chores, someone sitting in a chair outside and watching the houseboats go by, two people out in a boat for errands, another waiting patiently for the water ferry to come by so they could hop on and go perhaps to the nearby market where a single shop kept everything from groceries to stationery to hardware.
The next day the same quiet, sleepy backwaters would come alive with the noise, colours and excitement of the snake boat races. The canals would be crowded with varieties of boats all kinds; heading to the venue to get a good spot from which to watch the race. There would be music, cheering and fireworks celebrating the winners.
But I will also remember this day when our cruise began with the sound of the afternoon ‘azaan’ floating across the gently flowing waters. And how we spent the next few hours doing nothing except slowing ourselves down, unwinding and letting the beauty of our surroundings seep into our bodies and soothe our senses.
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